Opening Traditions is a collaborative project between designers Makiko
Shinoda (JP), Emilie Pallard (FR) and Niels Heymans (NL). For a period
of two years the three investigated the craft of Kurume Kasuri: an Ikat
weaving technique typical to the Kurume region, in the Fukuoka
prefecture of Japan. The technique requires yarn to be tied and dyed
before weaving, resulting in lush patterns with a subtle, hazy
appearance. The designers worked closely together with the Shimogawa
Orimono mill, where the Kasuri technique has been used for three
generations to weave the long strips of cotton used in the production of
classical kimonos.
With Opening Traditions, the designers shed a new light on this
traditional technique. They created a distinctive colour scheme of
twelve hues which generate a wide range of tones when woven. This broad
palette, inspired by the Japanese landscape, is a significant departure
from the usual indigo and white that is used for the traditional
fabrics. The design is built up from a smart, shifting pattern that
enables a longer repeat, cleverly working with the 24 cm limitation of
the warp repeat. The designers intend to use the fabric in the design of
their own garments, opening up the Kurume Kasuri technique to a new
audience.
This project gives insight into the creation of a new textile, from the
initial journeys the designers undertook to Japan, to the conversations,
colour studies, sketches and tests that paved the way for the final
fabrics. Opening Traditions represents a renewed connection between two
long intertwined cultures, an encounter with ancient craft and
contemporary design and a cross-pollination between centuries of
experience and fresh talent.
Year: 2016-2017
Collaboration:
Niels Heymans and Makiko Shinoda
Book: Faëlt
Video: Niels Heymans and
Text: Sander Manse
Photography: Jeroen van der Wielen, Niels Heymans, Emilie Pallard
Thanks to:Unagi-no-nedoko, Shimogawas san
Embassy of the kingdom of the Netherlands in Japan, DutchCulture, Stimuleringsfonds creative industrie
Books are for order at 25 euros, won the Best Dutch Book Designs